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A former mining village, St. Agnes, is notable for a high and a low. The high is St. Agnes Beacon rising to 628 feet, now in the care of the National Trust. Its summit is a splendid vantage point from which to view the breathtaking Cornish coastline, from St. Ives to the west to Trevose Head to the east, it is said that 23 miles of coast and 32 church towers can be seen from here. The old Cornish name of St. Agnes was Bryanick, meaning pointed hill. It is believed to have been named for this dominant landmark.
Just to the west of St. Agnes Beacon, north of Chapel Porth, is Wheal Coates Mine, also in the care of the National Trust. To stand looking down on these buildings, themselves some 200 feet above sea level, is to appreciate the sheer determination of the Cornish miners in their bid to wrest the metals from far beneath the ground.
Wheal Coates was in operation in 1802 and worked intermittently until 1889 with a reworking 1911-13. The site is notable for its trio of engine houses for winding, pumping and stamping. All three stand in a cliff-side setting. The mine workings reach down to the sea and at high tide, you can hear the waves crashing against the rocks through a grate covering the old mine shaft.
In the vicinity of nearby Beacon Cottage there are the remains of pits where candle clay was worked. This was supplied to the mining industry to fix candles onto the miners’ felt hats.
The extremely rich mining history of the village is due to the high quality tin found in the area, which was formed by action between the granite and the complex rock around the area’s cliffs. The mining that occurred in and around St. Agnes shaped the landscape, economy and society of the village. This is still evident today in the ruins of the mines themselves, the harbour where ore was shipped and coal received, as well as in the magnificent houses of the mine owners.
And coming down to sea level, and only in that sense is it a low, St. Agnes has four beaches close by, Chapel Porth, Trevellas Porth, Porthtowan and Trevaunance Cove. Each has its own unique character and variety of attractions. Chapel Porth is most accessible at low tide when you can walk for miles and even to the next beach. Indeed, for sunbathers and swimmers this could well be the high spot of their visit. Trevellas Porth is not suitable for bathing but is of interest because of the vestiges of the mining industry.
The ancient legend of the Giant Bolster is re-enacted in St. Agnes every May. The story tells of how the Giant Bolster and Agnes, a young local girl, outwitted him. The Giant walks over the cliffs at Chapel Porth along with a colourful procession and pageant, using giant moving puppets. The Giant makes another appearance later on in the year at the Carnival held in August. Bolster’s Dyke is a two mile long earthwork, said to have been built by the giant who lived there. It originally ran from Chapel Porth to Trevaunance Cove.
The village is also a centre for arts and crafts. The distinctive land and seascapes have inspired artists both locally and nationally. You will find a wealth of galleries and arts and craft shops displaying work by many local artists in a variety of media, including ceramics, jewellery, sculpture, oils and watercolour.
Nestled in the heart of St. Agnes, there is a lovingly restored fifteenth-century building believed to be part of the original village settlement. It now houses a wonderful craft gallery, Churchtown Arts that features a range of work including contemporary ceramics, glass, metalwork and jewellery, as well as prints and originals from all over Cornwall. In addition to the main craft gallery, there are workshops and studios on the far side of the central courtyard, where it is possible to watch crafts people at work.
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