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Belper

There have been settlers in the Belper section of the Derwent Valley for millenia, and many have left their mark on this, the only town in the East Midlands with World Heritage Status.
The hillside to the east is The Chevin, from the Celtic word Cefn, meaning ridge, and forms part of an ancient ridge-route used by Celts, Romans and Anglo Saxons.
From the time of the Norman Conquest the town was part of the Duffield Frith, or Forest, which included a medieval deer park, now preserved as a nature reserve known as the Belper Parks, close to the town centre. The 750-year-old foresters' chapel, situated above the Parks, now houses a heritage centre.
Belper stands at the heart of the Derwent Valley, which played a significant part in the Industrial Revolution, and the Derwent Valley Visitor Centre situated in Strutt's North Mill at Bridgefoot was set up to open a window on the history of the mills, cotton spinning and the town itself.
The Strutt family's association with Belper began with industrialist Jedediah. He had already transformed the hosiery business with his invention of the Derby Rib, which allowed ribbed, that is stretchable, stocking fabric to be made on a hand-worked knitting frame. It was his realisation that high quality thread was needed to make good hose which led him in 1776 to begin building cotton mills at Belper.
Jedediah and his sons went on to build many more mills at Belper and neighbouring Milford, although many of these have now been demolished. At one stage, these mills were the biggest industrial complex under single ownership in the world, and the Derwent the hardest working river in the world. Built in 1804, the North Mill was built by Jedediah's son William, and was the forerunner of the modern skyscraper, and the most advanced industrial building of its time. The frame of the building is made entirely of cast iron. Warm air central heating and air conditioning were installed to keep the cotton at an even temperature. The mill wheel was one of the widest of its time, and powered all the processes of cotton preparation.
At Strutt's North Mill, trained guides take visitors around one of the finest exhibitions of historic cotton spinning machinery in the world - from cottage industry to factory system through the Spinning Jenny, Water Frame and Spinning Mule. A nailer's workshop housed within the mill depicts the town's earliest major industry, dating back to the time of the Norman Conquest. There are stockings on show, chevened by local women over a century ago - just part of a display on Belper's historic links to the hosiery industry.
To encourage families to move into Belper and work in their mills, the Strutts built the first industrial housing estate for their workers, and this is still to be seen in the town today. Close by is the mile-long stone-lined railway cutting - designed by George Stephenson - which has cut through the town since 1838. The Strutt family were benefactors to Belper and Milford for two centuries, providing for the workers' needs, and there are still many buildings to be seen in the town which were built for the people by the Strutts. Another great legacy to the town was the River Gardens, given by George Herbert Strutt in 1906, an Edwardian water garden by the Derwent which still features band concerts on alternate summer Sundays.
The importance of the Belper mills and their historic industrial neighbours at Cromford, Darley Abbey and Derby was reflected by the World Heritage Site status given to the Derwent Valley Mills in December 2001. Other attractions worthy of a visit in the town include the De Bradelei Mill shopping outlet, the antiques centre in Unity Mill on Derwent Street and the bird sanctuary along Wyver Lane . Telephone the Derwent Valley Visitor Centre at Strutt's North Mill on 01773 880474 for more details.
The village of Milford, two miles downstream, is built on the Strutt  inheritance. Moat of the old mill, the unique warehouse and clock tower have regrettably gone, and with them the immodesty of millworkers' communal lavatories. But Milford exhibits the presence of a Pennine village, overlooked on its west side by the Chevin which, in geological terms, is the first (or last) hill in the Pennine range, and a good one for walking. Likewise, Milford is the last village of northern England if you are travelling south.
Another mile brings you to Duffield, a complete contrast and typical of a Midlands village. ''Duffield In Appletree" was one of five Hundreds in the County of Derby mentioned in the Domesday Book. It's former castle was built in about 1080 under the lordship of Henry de Ferrers. Nothing  Is left on the Castle Hill apart from a dome-covered well and outline of the foundations.
Some attractive Georgian backwaters exist and an impressive Derbyshire Building Society Head office which used to be St Ronan's School, a kind of latter-day St Triniansl The ancient Parish Church is in a lovely setting by the river almost half a mile from the present village. Duffield lies at the lower end of the Ecclesbourne Valley from Wirksworth. Between the two is as good a scenic drive as you will find anywhere.
The city of Derby is now just a short drive to the south.
We are grateful to the artist, R Meakin, for permission to include one of his excellent line drawings on this page. This is probably also a good place to thank John Cliff, a former editor of our Peak District pages, for the many drawings and writings of his which still appear in these pages. It was John who started the Handbook in this area and its present format still owes much to him.



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