At Lupton, on A65, and close to M6-J36, The Plough is an old coaching inn. Midway between the Lakes and the Dales, it is most conveniently placed for both, and for the exploration of north Lancashire, too. There is, indeed, much to explore in this area, and drivers hell-bent on getting to the Lakes just don't know what they are missing. The Lancaster Canal passes through lovely country at Farieton, just to the south, and the towpath leads to both solitude and beauty. Also nearby is Hutton Roof, a limestone knoll with dramatic crags, colourful and wonderful wild flowers. and interesting birdlife.
Sizergh Castle, well signed off the main road, is a good example of a fortified tower which over the centuries has been developed into a delightful country house see the picture and entry on this page.
Near Levens Bridge and Sizergh the road divides, and north-bound travellers have a choice of routes. The road north, with all its traffic and tedium, continues as A591 to Kendal, Windermere and Ambleside. Close to the junction, Low Sizergh Farm Shop sells strawberries and cream in season, or you can pick your own.
The A590 Barrow road, which crosses the mosslands as it skirts the shore of Morecambe Bay, starts at Levens. The A5074, off this road, is a far quieter route to Windermere for those who are not obsessed with nose to tail traffic queues. There is the bonus of some interesting places and delightful scenery en route. An even more pleasant option is to potter along the (very) minor road towards Levens Village, and then go through the sylvan delight of Brigsteer Woods - carpeted with primroses, dog violets and daffodils in spring. Carry on, up the east side of the Lyth Valley, and along the foot of Scout Scar to Crook. In April there is a mass of damson and blackthorn blossom.
Northern life could be a bit fraught in medieval times, and a prime requirement for a family of substance was a massive stone pele tower in which to shelter from the fury of the raiding Scots. Normal daily life would centre on the adjoining house, often of timber frame construction. Levens Hall began life in this way, and the original pele still stands near the main entrance. The present hall dates from the great rebuild in Elizabethan times, and it is a splendid example of its kind.
Levens is probably best known for the topiary gardens, constructed by Monsieur "Trusty" Beaumont, gardener to King James 11. 1992 was their tercentenary year, and they have changed little over the centuries. The topiary work is quite extraordinary, and thousands of visitors each year come to see nothing else. But Levens has much more to offer the visitor with time to spare, and the interior of the house is a wonderland of wood panelled walls, carved over-mantels, decorated friezes and ornate plaster ceilings. They provide a perfect setting for the splendid Jacobean furniture, and the fine paintings and draperies. This is still the home of the family that commissioned M. Beaumont so many years ago.
As the road continues towards Barrow, the great grey and menacing bulk of Whitbarrow lies ahead. Just past the scar, a little road runs below the great limestone cliff to Witherslack. This quiet village seems to be scattered over a large area south of the Hall, and it is a good place to stop for refreshment at the Tea Rooms. Narrow and quiet roads wend their way from here through typical Lakeland countryside by Bowland Bridge to Winster. In this valley, at Low Ludderburn, Arthur Ransome wrote Swallows & Amazons, and the inspiration for many of his books is all around. This is the contemplative driver's way to Windermere.